Chiapas - September 2021

By Ojrza - 14:56


Chiapas was the most anticipated part of the trip. Chiapas is the most southern state of Mexico, by the Pacific coast and by the Guatemalan border. It is a very diverse state when it comes to physical geography, it includes sub-tropical rainforest, high mountains and plains, the coast. It was also one of the states where ancient Mayans reigned for centuries, leaving behing hundreds of temples In Chipapas the amplitude of the tempretatures were the highest of all trip, for example driving from city of San Cristobal de las Casas in the cool mountains town to Palenque region in a hot and humid jungle. 

It actually used to be a part of Guatemala until the 1840s as its people had stronger bonds and a sense of identity tied with Guatemala.

Chiapas is a paradise full of hidden gems and uncanny attractions that would thrill any adventure seeker - but not everybody dares to. Chiapas is unfortunately one of the poorest states of the country and even with its relatively low crime rate some inciidents may occur, specially to the tourists that roam around by themselves. Not necessairly life-threatening situations, but it is not uncommon to encounter a barricade of children on the road who won't let you pass unless you hand them money. There are some particular routes that are known for that, the most known one probably being the Palenque - San Christobal de las Casas. But if you are going with a tour all the tour buses from different companies stick together and have contacts with the police so there is really nothing to stress about. We decided to take tours anyway because we didn't have enough time to cover everything up by ourselves.

Chiapas is also famous for indigenous villages with... peculiar rituals, we didn't take part in any, but I think that Chula village is the most known and touristy. There is this small catholic church that combines christianity with indigenous beliefs and sacrifices chickens in the temple during the ceremony.







SAN CHRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

We first arrived to San Christobal de las Casas, one of the biggest cities in the region and the cultural heart of the state. We stayed in San Chris for four nights and decided that this would be our accomodation for all the trips around Chiapas.  All the guided tours start from here and it was actually a good idea to be walking around the main street and book the tours in their offices downtown instead of doing it online - the prices were much better!

The city itself is a colonial town hidden in the mountains, at about 2200 meters above sea level. It has one main street in the historical centre where the life concentrates, but actually throughout the whole central area entertainment and accomodation can be found. Most of the inhabitatts work in the tourist sector, it is a heavily touristic town but it is actially prospering thanks to it.

It has a totally different vibe to Oaxaca though. It too had lots of indigenous people but they seem to feel a bit more hostile to the tourists, as if they were disturbing their chiapan life, but on the other hand they need to be tolerated because they are the main income of the area. I think this was also due to the feel of slight poverty. But not that much. I don't want to generalize and spread hate because many locals were amazingly helpful and nice to us, specially considering my rough spanish. Oh, that is another thing, I think that in Chiapas it would be very difficult to get around without any basic spanish. It's essential to make arrangements, to understand the tour driver, in most accomodation. Learn spanish, folks! 

But I wouldn't say that I didn't enjoy being there, it just needed more time to get used to a different mindset. The main street was full of interesting shops and restaurants and coffeehouses. Actually, coffee is a pretty big thing in Chipas as it is grown in the state, in the mountains (coffee plants can grow and give crops above a certain altitude). There were a few fantastic coffee houses along the main street where we drank specialty coffee and even did a coffee tasting - we got regular coffee, coffee flower infusion and cascara (dried out coffee fruit) infusion. 

Walking through the narrow streets between one-storey colourful buildings was like living a dream about being an adventurer in Mexico. 



















































































ARCOTETE

The following day we decided to enjoy some activities aroumd San Christobal de las Casas, in order to have a more chilled day before two intensive tour days. We chose to ride bikes but do not be fooled, this was massively exhausting despite what I thought! Cycling on 2200 meters above sea level and going uphill was a nightmare due to the altitude.

We thought of making a big loop around San Chris but it didn't work out, but we made it to our main destination - the Arcotete. It is a park surrounding a small river with massive rock formations which in one spot form an arc through which the water flows, with small waterfalls and caves. 

































AGUA AZUL

The biggest and most exciting part of visiting Chiapas was taking a guided tour to Palenque and the waterfalls.  The area of Palenque lis about 200 kilometers from San Christobal de las Casas, however the route is dangerous and goes entirely through the mountains going downhill, so the drive is about 5 hours one way, As if it wasn't enough, the road was awfully unpleasant because it was filled with topes on its whole length, which are speedbumps that shoot the whole minivan. We did have to leave at 4 am and returned around 10 pm, but it was so worth it. 

On the way I sat by the window and observed chiapan life, this is something I really like in bus rides through smaller roads.










Agua Azul was the first stop on the tour. 

El Agua Azul translated as the blue water is a waterfall consisting of as much as 500 smaller ones falling in cascades, and it is the most popular waterfall to visit in notthern Chiapas.

The blueish shade of the water is due to abundance of minerals in the water that give the colour. The water weren't blue at this time of year though, the current was quite rapid because of the rainfall of the season, but it did make a great impression anyways. The climate was completely different than in San Christobal de las Casas, this was basically a humid rainforest.

It was possible to walk along the cascades on wooden terraces, up to the top. Around the waterfalls tourist facilities spread, like numerous restaurants or empanada stalls, souvenirs and clothing shops.



























PALENQUE

Then we rode forward towards Palenque, the big guy of this trip.






So what is Palenque? Palenque was a Mayan city-state in southern Mexico, translated as Flat-Place-River. It perished around the 8th century and the jungle tooked over the mighty ruins with cedar and mahogany trees growing over them. Then, it was discovered after the Spanish arrived, attracting archeologists from all over the world up until this day. It was not one of the biggest Mayan sites, famous Chitzen Itza on Yucatan surpasses it noticably, but its jungle location makes is one of the most interesting ones (as people say, we only visited this one and we were not dissapointed).

The archeological site is within Palenque national park. 

The site that was uncovered is about 2,5 square kilometers, however it is merely 10% of the original mayan complex. Apart from seeing the main temples tourists can be taken to a short jungle trek and see the temples that weren't excavated yet. Most of them are so covered in foliage and soil of the jungle, that a typical person wouldn't notice them while walking through the jungle, most likely.







It was actually good to have a tour guide, though our group got one in Spanish and we decided to go for it. He was very kind tho to make sure that we understood and too extra time to explain to us certain parts of the tour.

The main temple is named the Temple of Inscriptions and it was the tomb of Pakal - the greatest ruler of this city-state. His burial site was said to be the richest and the best preserved in both Americas. The name was due to long text that was written on it. It is 60m wide and 27 meters high. Its structure is still somehow misterious to archeologists, to understand why did the Mayans build the interior passages the way they did.

Other important places on the site included the palace with an aqueduct and a set of graceful pyramids - Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Cross and Temole of the Foliated cross.


































MISOL-HA

On the way back from Palenque we made one more stop. 

Misol-Ha was another waterfall that we visited, and I think that this was my favourite one from the whole trip to Mexico. It was a set of two waterfalls but falling from a noticible height, instead of a cascade of many small ones. What was amazing that there was a carved path behind the waterfall and we could see it from behind and from below. It was very humid and very wet obviously! 

We didn't even notice when it started raining because we got so soaked up from the droplets from the waterfall. But we just felt so happy in that moment. I honestly wish we had more time there, I would love to swim in its pool. 


























EL CHIFLÓN

The following day we took another organised trip, but this time in the opposite direction driving towards the Guatemalan border. This time we had a wonderful tour guide that was very excited about those two polish people among a tour full of Mexicans of various mexican states and everybody just seemed so kind to us. It was a very good day!







The first stop was El Chiflón waterfall. It is a very powerful waterfall that acutally consists of a few large waterfalls. During this rainy season the waters weren't as turqoise as it was described, but it was much stronger than during the dry season. Actually it was so humid from the droplets that after entering the waterfall viewpoints people were soaking wet as if they hopped into the waterfall pool. My camera actually had a bit of a crisis from the water and started glitching, but luckily, nothing serious happened and it works just fine.



















And there it was, the most powerful of them all - Vela de Novia waterfall. This spectacular waterfall was 120 meters high, where water fell of a cliff into a small basin with a loud roar and a great force... it was an unforgettable sight.





LAGOS DE MONTEBELLO

Lagos the Montebello were supposedly the highlight of this daytrip, it is a series of very picturesque lakes licated right by the Guatemalan border. It was in fact possible to buy guatemalan goods like coffee, beer, spices or sweets and eat a typical guatemalan dish.






















One of the lakes is split between Mexico and Guatemala, the border goes right trough its middle. We were dropped of at the border where we could also go to a small market on the Guatemalan side selling guatemalan souvenirs, cigarettes, coffee and other goods. 

Technically speaking, we went for a short walk in Guatemala.


























SUMIDERO

On our last day before leaving Chiapas we took a short tour to the Sumidero Canion - an absolutely fantastic canion on Grijalva river (supposedly one of the most contaminated rivers in Mexico when it comes to trash, but on the wet season it didn't look as bad). Its walls are as high as 1000 meters at certain points! This formation is a result of a tectonic crack in the areas crust and subsequent erosion.

The whole area of the canion is protected as a national park, due to the abundance of fauna and flora. It is home to crocodiles, monkeys and numerous species of birds and insects. 

It was possible to see the canion from a few viewpoints from above, and from below during a two-hour boat ride.
















































CHIAPA DE CORZO

Chiapa de Corzo was the last stop of our Chiapan adventure. It is one of the magical cities called Pueblos Magicos, and we finished our boat ride over there. It was very hot over there at midday, we had a quick look around, ate a meal at a local marketplace and went to the airport.





































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